Blowing cold air
Different fault, similar symptom. The fan keeps running but no warm air.
The technical name is "short cycling" — and 7 times out of 10 in Adelaide it's a flame sensor that's collected a bit of carbon and lost its ability to confirm the burner is alight. The safety system does what it should and shuts the gas off. Quick clean, you're back in business. Here's how to know if that's your fault — and what else it could be.
Every modern gas heater has a small probe sitting in the burner flame called a flame sensor (or flame rectification rod). When the burner is lit, the flame conducts a tiny electrical current from the rod to ground. The control board sees that current and goes "yep, the flame is real, keep the gas on". When the current drops, the board can't be sure the gas is being burnt — so it shuts the valve straight away. That's the cycle you're hearing.
The current is tiny — measured in microamps. Anything that interrupts the path will trip the safety: a thin layer of carbon on the rod (extremely common after a season of dust and combustion), a slightly bent rod no longer touching the flame properly, or — less commonly — a failing control board.
Other causes that look identical from the outside: overheating because the filter is blocked, a thermostat with bad contacts that keeps cutting the call for heat, or low gas pressure starving the burner mid-cycle. We work through all of them.
Mostly no. The shut-off is the safety system doing its job. Each cycle stops cleanly with no gas escaping into the room. CO risk is low because the burner is off most of the time.
What's not ideal: repeated ignition cycles wear out the igniter and gas valve much faster than normal use. A heater short-cycling 50 times a night is doing a year's worth of wear in a week. Fix it sooner rather than later — what's a $140 flame sensor clean today becomes a $400 gas valve in two months.
Stop and call us if: you can smell gas at any point, the heater bangs on ignition (see banging on ignition), or the flame looks yellow or lazy when it does light.
How long does it run before cutting? Under 2 minutes is short-cycling. 15–25 minutes is normal thermostat behaviour.
Ducted system: pull the return-air filter, check it's not choked. Wall heater: check the back/sides for dust build-up.
Set well above current room temp. If batteries are old, replace them. Wiggle a wall thermostat — bad contacts show themselves.
You can do three safe things:
Beyond that, every part of the gas system — including cleaning the flame sensor — has to be done by a licensed gas fitter under SA's Plumbing, Gas and Electrical Services Act 1995. Even removing the burner cover voids your insurance.
2026 Adelaide pricing, GST included, no call-out fee:
If we can't fix it in one visit because we need a brand-specific part, we'll quote the cost upfront and order it the same day.
Same day across Adelaide metro if you ring before 10am. Most short-cycling jobs take 45–75 minutes on site — diagnose, clean or replace the part, pressure-test, CO check, done. After-hours callout is $249 if it's making your house unliveable in the cold.
Different fault, similar symptom. The fan keeps running but no warm air.
Brand-specific codes decoded — Braemar, Brivis, Bonaire, more.
A yearly service prevents most short-cycling faults from happening at all.
Same-day Adelaide metro. Most jobs under $300. Upfront pricing, no surprises.